Balenciaga’s extremely long show did make some sense Never Stand Between A Woman And Her Son shirt. As designer Demna Gvasalia had described his collection as an ode to customers. You could imagine a video of the show playing on a loop in his stores, where they could pick out looks and wear them as the models did. But in person at the show, the lighting made it tough to make out much of the detail. The silhouettes seemed to shift on the axis from horizontal to vertical, meaning the over-wide shoulders of seasons past had shifted to extra-long coats for fall. Another group of jackets had stiffly crimped shoulders, as if they still had the hangers in them.
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Then came a passage of bright monochromatic knits, dresses, and tops with hoops woven into the necklines, making the wearers look kind of like spacemen who had removed their helmets Never Stand Between A Woman And Her Son shirt. Meanwhile, the basic suits and jackets, the checkerboard jeans, the shopper totes and more that you could pick out of the collection were striking for their — dare I say? — approachability. And the gowns, especially a sleeveless one made of looped thread in silver, were sensational, but not easy for most people to wear. So, I guess you could say there’s something for everyone. Clare Waight Keller’s latest offering for Givenchy was also filled with new ideas, and some older ones, too. The Fortuny-like pleated dresses at the heart of the collection, printed with a floral pattern, were beautiful, but then they did seem a tad repetitive after the 10th or so. They tended to overshadow the many smart belted coats with puffed up shoulders in the show, which looked really cool and powerful, as did a new, looser cut of a white blouse worn with a long flat black bow. Speaking of cool, Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino knows when to move on from a hot look, even one that he helped create. More than anyone, Piccioli is responsible for the popularity of the lavishly cut tent dresses seen in pop colors on runways and red carpets everywhere these days, but he’s ready for something fresh.